Marie Esselstein Expert Guru

As a two time graduate of the Ohio State University (history & English) I felt as though I had fulfilled a requirement, but not followed my passion. I have always had a love for the knowledge of skin care and makup artistry. So I followed my passion and attended the Ohio State School of Cosmetology's Spa School, where I earned a Managing Esthetician's License. As an esthetician, I have the opportunity to learn first hand what products work and what doesn't. I know when you need just a facial, and when you need to see the doctor. I know the difference between help and hype. So many products make promises they simply cannot deliver. My clients love that I don't sell "hope in a jar." I make honest suggestions based on what the client is trying to accomplish. Often, those suggestions lead to a facial or product sale, but just as often, those suggestions lead to a consultation with a dermatologist or cosmetic surgeon. My goal is to give my clients all the tools, and education, they need to make both informed and frugal decisions regarding their skin care. I want you to look as beautiful as you can, for as long as you can, without spending money you don't have to.

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What can I do about wrinkles?

Ok, the question is, do you have wrinkles or fine lines?

If you have fine lines, good skin care, with microdermabrasion performed by an esthetician should help immensely.

Microdermabrasion treatments run about $100.

If you have wrinkles, true improvement can only be had with Botox, fillers, or--worst case scenario--a facelift.

Botox—paralyzes the muscle, greatly improving the wrinkles between brows, on the corners of the eyes, and on the forehead. It runs anywhere from $250-$1000 and must be repeated every 2-6 months.

Fillers—like collagen, Restylane and Juvederm, fill in the wrinkle from the inside. They are great for smile and marionette lines, as well as crow's feet. Treatments run anywhere from $500-$2500 depending on the product of choice, and must be repeated every 6 weeks to a year.

Facelifts—lift the skin and underlying muscle tissue surgically. They are generally the last choice you will want to consider because they are invasive surgery and you will need extended time off work and other activities to recover. Facelifts make a huge difference for excessively sagging skin, and a skin resurfacing, like dermabrasion or a chemical peel, are usually recommended to provide the best results.
Facelifts run anywhere from $8,000 to $25,000 or more depending on your doctor, location and how extensive the work to be done is.

In all cases, good daily skincare and daily sunscreen use is essential.

The makeup I've always worn suddenly looks horrible. What can I do?

If you are 40, and wearing the same makeup you did at 20, then of course it is going to look different. Your face looks different.

Over time, the skin on your face has changed. Oil production usually slows, and skin starts to lose elasticity. Products created for teens and twenty-somethings, rarely work well for women over 35.

So scrub your face and evaluate your skin. Then take action on the changes.

Two things that I have discovered concerning makeup and aging skin that never seem to be wrong are:
1) Throw away anything that sparkles! Actually, anyone over 25 needs to do this. You look cute all shimmery at 16, you look silly at 26.
2) For skin that is starting to age, less is more. Most of my clients in this age group have gone to mineral foundation, a sweep of blush on the cheeks, another sweep of blush (instead of shadow) on the eyelids, a little eyeliner, mascara and a neutral (not nude) lip, for their daily look. Why?

Overdoing foundation shows off wrinkles--light foundations, like mineral powders, just even skin tone.

Blush makes you look healthy, when not overdone. Use it on eyes instead of shadow and it will give the little bit of shadow you need without attracting attention to sagging skin or developing crow's feet.

Eyeliner at your discretion--some women in this age group don't need it, some look washed out without it.

Everyone needs mascara, but don't overdo. 1-2 light coats with a combing in between should be perfect.

Finally a neutral lip looks finished without standing out. It doesn't draw attention to feathering, and often looks younger by lightening (and thus visiually "plumping") up lips that are starting to thin.

Laser Hair Reduction for the Body

Laser Hair Reduction--This is a procedure wherein a laser is used to seek out and destroy the hair at the root.

Who does it work for?
This works best for fair skinned people with dark hair because the laser seeks out the color in the hair. There are lasers that can be used on darker skins and on lighter hair, but the best results are still to be had on people with the light skin, dark hair combination.

How many treatments will I need?
While this can vary from person to person, the average is 4-6 treatments. You will probably need a few follow up treatments down the road as well.

Why can't I get it all in one treatment?
Because the laser only works on hair that is in the active stage of growth. 20-60% of your hair is in this stage at any one time. However, you should see a significant reduction in the first few sessions.

Why is it called reduction and not removal?
Because it reduces the number of hairs that grow. You will find that lighter/fine hairs may remain. Also, hair growth is highly affected by hormones. As your hormones change, new growth may occur and you may need a follow up treatment.

Does it hurt?
Like many things, some people think it hurts and some people think it doesn't. Most people equate it with the feeling of having a rubber band snapped against the skin. Most people are fine with just a little ibuprofin. If you have a very low pain tolerance, you may want to talk to a doctor about a prescription.

What areas can be treated?
Pretty much any area that normally has hair.

How much does it cost?
That depends on the size of the area to be treated, the area of the country in which you live and of course the expertise of your doctor or technician. Many laser centers offer free or inexpensive consultations. This is really the best way to assess what the price would be for you.

Can I Please Just Pop This Zit?

OK, I know your mother has told you not to do it. But I'm going to tell you HOW to do it as safely as possible.

First of all, NEVER pick at a pimple. If it doesn't have a whitehead on it you will do damage to your skin and probably won't get anything out of it anyway. If you are desperate to get rid of this, see your dermatologist for a cortizone shot. Pricey, but effective and fast.

If on the other hand you have a whitehead, even a small one, you can probably "pop" it safely. Here's how--

1. Wash your face with a gentle cleanser.
2. Take a very warm washcloth and hold it over the zit for about 60 seconds.
3. Put some astringent (like Sea Breeze) on two cotton balls.
4. Hold the cotton balls over your index fingers. Place your fingers on either side of the pimple and use a gentle rolling motion to squeeze out the pus. This should feel like you are getting under the zit and gently forcing the liquid out the top. (Note: if you are squeezing so hard it hurts the skin around the bump-stop, it's not ready.)
5. Continue to squeeze until clear water or blood (no pus)comes out.
6. With a fresh cotton ball apply more astringent, then dot on a benzoyl peroxide product (like Clearasil) to prevent infection.

About Electrolysis

Electrolysis is a process by which permanent hair removal is achieved one hair at a time. It is the only method recognized as truly permanent by the American Medical Association.

How does it work?
The technician inserts a fine filament (a very thin wire) into the hair shaft. Then, a small electrical current is applied to the hair root. This current kills the hair's ability to grow back.

Who does it work for?
Everyone.

How many treatments will I need?
This will depend on the area to be treated and your personal tolerance. Remember, you are removing the hairs one at a time.


Does it hurt?
Like many things, some people think it hurts and some people think it doesn't. Your technician will probably use a topical analgesic to help with pain. Most people also take ibuprofin before treatment. If you have a very low pain tolerance, you may want to talk to a doctor about a prescription.

What areas can be treated?
Pretty much any area that normally has hair. To be cost effective though, I recommend it be used on smaller areas where coarse hairs have sprung up. For example, between the brows or on the chin for women. Areas like underarms and legs can be treated successfully, but it will take a very long time and financial commitment.

How much does it cost?
That depends on how much hair you have, the area you live in and of course, your electrologist. Electrolysis is usually priced by time per session. For example, you pay for a 1/2 hour session, and your electrologist clears as many hairs as possible in 1/2 hour.